Textile Glossary

Abrasion: The wearing away of a solid surface by friction.

Abrasion Resistance: The ability of a fiber or fabric to resist surface wear by friction and rubbing.

Acrylic: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units [-CH2-CH(CN)-]. Acrylic fibers have low moisture absorbency and dry relatively quickly. Because acrylic fibers are thermoplastic, fabrics may be heat-set for wrinkle resistance. In general, acrylic fibers are resistant to the degrading effects of ultraviolet rays in sunlight and to a wide range of chemicals and fumes.

Air Jet Spinning: A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air.

Backing: A general term for any system of yarn which interlaces on the back of a textile material. A woven fabric bonded to a face fabric.

Blend: A fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber. A fabric containing blended yarns in the warp and filling.

Breaking Strength: The measurement of stress exerted to pull a fabric apart under tension.

Colorfastness: A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight and other environmental conditions.

Construction: The details of structure of fabric. Includes such information as style, width, type of weave, threads per inch in warp and fill, and weight of goods.

Count: A number identifying yarn size or weight per unit length or vice versa, depending on the particular system being used. Count of fabric is indicated by the number of warp ends and filling ends per inch.

Denier: A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple). The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber.

Density: The number of picks and ends in a cloth.

Di-Electric Welding: Certain fabrics with "thermoplastic" properties, such as acrylics and vinyls, can be welded together with various machines that use high frequency electrical impulse. A high frequency electric impulse is sent through the fabrics by means of a bar or table and this mixes up the molecular structure of the thermoplastic materials. When the bar or table is removed, the two fabrics are melted or welded together. Also referred to as "RF welding".

Dobby Weave: A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for upholstery applications.

Drill: A strong, durable cotton fabric. Most often dyed.

Durability: The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.

Elasticity: The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape or size immediately after the removal of stress.

Elongation: The deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensile force. Elongation is measured in: (1) units of length (e.g., centimeters, inches), or (2) calculated as a percentage of the original specimen length. Elongation may be measured at any specified load or at the breaking load.

Fabric Widths: Upholstery fabrics are generally manufactured in widths between 48" (120 cm) and 60" (150 cm). Normal upholstery yardage requirements are based on 50"-54" goods.

Face: The side of the fabric which is visible when upholstered.

Fiber: The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns and then used in the production of a fabric.

Filament: A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production process.

Filling: In a woven fabric, the yarns that run cross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and which run perpendicular to the warp or lengthwise yarns. Also referred to as the weft.

Fluorochemical Soil/Stain Repellent: Fabric protectors that serve as soil retardants and as water and oil based stain repellents at the same time.

Finish: Finish is a generic term used to describe all subsequent changes to a fiber. A distinction is made between mechanical and chemical finishes.

Greige Fabric: A fabric just off the loom or weaving machine, i.e., in an unfinished state.

Hand: A word used to describe the feel (i.e. body or fullness) of fabric, typically upholstery fabric.

Herringbone: A variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals, producing a zig-zag effect.

Jacquard: Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics.

Lining: A fabric that is used to cover the inside (backing) of a fabric or canvas to provide a finished look. Generally with design pattern or plain weave.

Laminated Fabric: A three-layer fabric, normally constructed of a fabric top and bottom layer, and an intermediate elastomer layer.

Loom: A machine for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical, parallel threads (the warp) with the series of horizontal, parallel threads (the filling).

Martindale Test: A wear abrasion test used extensively in Europe. The fabric's warp and weft are abraded at the same time.

Plain Weave: The most simple method of interlacing warp and weft threads to make a cloth. Each filling thread passes alternately under and over the warp yarns to produce a balanced construction.

Mercerization: A process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes and increased strength.

Moisture Regain: The amount of water a completely dry fiber will absorb from the air at a standard condition of 70 degrees F and a relative humidity of 65%. Expressed as a % of the dry fiber weight.

Monofilament: A single filament of a manufactured fiber, usually made in a denier higher than 14. Monofilaments are usually spun singularly, rather than extruded as a group of filaments through a spinneret and spun into a yarn.

Pigment: An insoluble, finely divided substance , such as titanium dioxide, used to deluster or color fibers, yarns, or fabrics.

Plain Weave: A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Polyester Fiber: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid. Fiber forms produced are filament, staple, and tow. Polymerization is accomplished at a high temperature, using a vacuum. The glycol and ester reaction forms a polymer chain, releasing methanol. The filaments are spun in a melt-spinning process, stretched several times their original length, orients the long chain molecules and gives the fiber strength. It has excellent dimensional stability, high dielectric strength, excellent resiliency and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Reed: The comblike device on a loom through which the warp ends pass.

Repellency: The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc.

Resiliency: The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled or distorted in any way.

Ring Spun Yarn: The fibers are parallel and the yarns have little texture. They are very strong. Worsted and loosely spun woolen yarns are predominately manufactured using the ring spinning method.

Sanforizing: Sanforizing is an artificial shrinking process that prevents subsequent shrinkage. A special machine uses moisture and heat to produce crosswise and lengthwise shrinkage that prevents subsequent shrinkage during the washing process.

Scotchgard™: A registered brand name for a stain-repellent and rain-repellent finish.

Selvage: The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge: A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave.

Serging: An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.

Singeing: Singeing is a mechanical method of pretreatment that is generally used on cellulose fibers. Fiber ends protruding from the composite yarn or fabric are singed off using a gas flame or other source of heat. This produces a smooth, lint-free product. The risk of attracting dirt and the pilling tendency are reduced.

Solution-Dyed: A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the melted polymer and spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. The color is integral to the fiber, producing excellent colorfastness. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are colorfast to most destructive agents - the most colorfast system used today.

Spinneret: A metal disc containing numerous minute holes used in yarn extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced through the holes to form the yarn filaments.

Spinning: The process of twisting staple fibers into single-ply yarn, or of drawing liquid through a spinneret to produce synthetic monofilaments.

Spun Yarn: 1. A yarn consisting of staple fibers usually bound together by twist. 2. A melt-spun fiber before it is drawn.

Stabilizing: Any process which prevents fabrics from shrinking or stretching.

Staple Fibers: Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.

Synthetic Rubber: Sulphur is added to synthetic rubber to bind the individual rubber particles and produce the necessary elasticity.

Tenacity: The tensile stress when expressed as force per unit linear density of the unstrained specimen (e.g., grams per tex or grams per denier.)

Textured: An adjective used to describe continuous filament man-made yarns (and woven and knit fabrics made therefrom) which have been crimped or have had random loops imparted, or which have been otherwise modified to create a different surface texture.

Textured Yarns: Yarns which develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn.

Texturing: The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying continuous filament yarn to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorption or to provide a different surface texture. Texturing methods can be placed roughly into six groups.

Thread: A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other needlework. Most threads are made by plying and twisting yarns. A wide variety of thread types is in use today, e.g., spun cotton and spun polyester, core-spun cotton with a polyester filament core, polyester or nylon filaments (often bonded), and monofilament threads. A general term for yarns used in weaving and knitting, as in "thread count" and "warp threads."

Twill Weave: A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a marked diagonal effect on the face of the fabric.

Twist: A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm) or turns per centimeter (tpc).

Ultraviolet Resistance: Ability to withstand decay due to the damaging effect of the ultraviolet rays of the sun.

Ultraviolet Stability: The ability of a textile to retain strength when exposed to ultraviolet light over a specified period.

Warp: In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns.

Warp Beam: A large pool or flanged cylinder around which the warp threads, or ends, are wound in a uniform and parallel arrangement.

Waterproof: A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.

Water Repellent: A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water.

Wear Test: A test for fabric wear, abrasion, flexibility, washing, crushing, creasing, etc., in which the fabric is made into a garment, worn for a specific time, then assessed for performance.

Weft: In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.

Worsted Yarn: Smooth, high quality, strongly twisted wool yarn made from long individual fibers. The shorter fibers are combed out. Worsted yarn does not define a specific quality but rather a method of production. The fibers are gradually stretched in phases during the worsted yarn spinning process. Folding the fibers and combing out the short fibers produces yarns that are particularly smooth and even.

Woven Fabric: Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.

Wrinkle Recovery: Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled or distorted in any way.

Yarn: A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. Strands of fibers are spun into a yarn. A distinction is made between spun yarns and filament yarns. Spun yarns are produced by twisting fibers. Filament yarns are yarns made from several endless threads or filaments.

Yarn Denier: The denier of a filament yarn. It is the product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the yarn.